windy city pizza, san mateo

Windy City Pizza, tucked away in a mini-mall off a commercial stretch in San Mateo serves up true Chicago-style feed, from pizzas (deep dish, stuffed, double-stuffed and thin crust) to ribs to Chicago’s famous Vienna hot dogs in a no-nonsense middle america ambiance.

On our latest visit we started with the Greek Salad (5.95). A huge plate piled high with lettuce (mostly the hearty romaine leaf), pale-red out-of-season tomato wedges, kalamata olives, feta cheese cubes and thick slices of red onion, all drenched in a tangy oil and red wine vinegar dressing. This is not one of those frou-frou salads but rather what you might expect from a good diner – very straightforward and generously portioned, it sets the tone for the meal to come.

The second appetizer, Rib Tips (5.95) are succulent and juicy, drenched in a not-too-sweet not-too-spicy barbecue sauce. There were the occassional renegade dry bits but according to my Chicago-bred, finger-lickin’ dining companion, they were authentic and indeed delicious. This appetizer is gigantic and could very well be a meal by itself.

And now to the main event, the pizza. We shared a small 10 x 2 inch deep dish pizza, half spinach and half vegetarian (12.95). This pizza is as thick as a spare tire, which is no doubt where it will go once eaten. A quick scan at the fellow diners confirms this. The crust is crispy on the outside, soft of the inside and flaky throughout…while not greasy this crust definitly has it’s share of fat in it – just the way a deep dish oughta be. This suberb crust is topped by a layer of thick, tangy tomato sauce. Just enough to moisten the pizza and add a little acidity without being too noticable. Generous piles of vegetables and cheese top off the pie which works wonderfully as a unit, each solider (crust, sauce, vegetables, toppings) doing their parts without standing out. No primadonnas vying for their two minutes of glory here – just a good solid team effort that results in a harmonious pizza.

The menu is quite extensive but the real draw here are the deep dish pizzas and the barbecue meats. If you’re a Chicago-transplant and have been hankering for some real comfort food, this is the place to go.

Windy City Pizza
35 Bovet Road
San Mateo
650 591 9457
www.windycitypizza.com